A Victorian pudding worth reviving

Queen of Puddings belongs to that generous family of British puddings built on stale bread, eggs and whatever jam was in the pantry. It first appears in Victorian cookery books, and the name was almost certainly a nod of loyalty to Queen Victoria herself. What looks like a modest list of store-cupboard ingredients turns into something far grander: a soft, lemony breadcrumb custard, a shining seam of raspberry jam, and a billowing meringue top that bakes to a pale gold crust.

It is thrifty without ever tasting cheap, which is precisely why it survived. On a cold Sunday, with a jug of custard alongside, there are few puddings that comfort quite so thoroughly.

Understanding the three layers

Queen of Puddings succeeds or fails on the balance between its three parts, so it is worth knowing what each one is doing.

• The base is a baked breadcrumb custard. Fresh white crumbs soak up a warm milk and lemon infusion, and the egg yolks set it to a soft, spoonable wobble. It should never be dry or rubbery.
• The jam is the sharp note that cuts through the richness of the custard and the sweetness of the meringue. Raspberry is traditional and, in my view, still the best.
• The meringue sits on top like a duvet. Whisked whites give you height and a crisp shell, while the steam trapped underneath keeps the custard gentle.

Ingredients

• 100g fresh white breadcrumbs, made from day-old bread
• 600ml full-fat milk
• 50g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing
• 4 large eggs, separated
• 75g caster sugar, plus 125g for the meringue
• Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 4–5 tbsp good raspberry jam
• A pinch of fine salt
• 1 tbsp flaked almonds, optional

You will also need a 1.5-litre ovenproof dish, buttered generously, and a roasting tin large enough to hold it.

Making the breadcrumb base

Heat the oven to 160°C fan (180°C conventional, gas mark 4). Warm the milk gently in a saucepan with the lemon zest and vanilla until it is steaming but not boiling, then take it off the heat. Drop in the butter and let it melt.

Tip the breadcrumbs into a bowl and pour the warm milk over them. Leave to stand for ten minutes so the crumbs swell properly — this is the step people skip, and it is the difference between a silky custard and a gritty one. Whisk the egg yolks with the 75g of caster sugar and the salt, then stir them into the soaked crumbs.

Pour the mixture into the buttered dish and sit it in the roasting tin. Pour boiling water into the tin until it comes about halfway up the sides of the dish. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the custard is set at the edges but still has a faint wobble in the centre. Lift the dish out and leave it to settle for five minutes while you turn the oven up to 170°C fan (190°C conventional, gas mark 5).

Jam, meringue and the golden finish

Warm the jam briefly in a small pan — just enough to loosen it — then spoon it over the custard, spreading it nearly to the edges. Don't be tempted to use cold jam straight from the jar; it sits in a stubborn lump and the meringue slides off it later.

Whisk the egg whites in a clean, grease-free bowl until they hold soft peaks. Add the 125g of caster sugar a spoonful at a time, whisking well between each addition, and carry on until the meringue is thick, glossy and holds a firm peak on the whisk. Spoon it over the jam, spreading it to the rim of the dish so it seals in the custard, and swirl the top with the back of a spoon. Scatter over the flaked almonds if you like.

Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the meringue is crisp and rippled with gold. If it is still pale after 20 minutes, give it five more at a slightly higher shelf. Let it stand for ten minutes before serving — the custard needs that time to firm up, and the meringue will be easier to cut cleanly.

Seasonal notes and serving

Raspberry jam is the classic, but this pudding is a fine vehicle for whatever the year is offering. In late summer, fold a handful of fresh raspberries through the warm jam before spreading it. Come September, blackberry or damson jam gives a darker, more brooding edge that suits the cooling weather. In winter, a little orange zest grated into the milk in place of the lemon lifts the whole thing.

Serve it warm rather than hot, with pouring cream, clotted cream or a thin custard. It is best on the day it is made, though any leftovers will keep covered in the fridge for two days and reheat gently, covered with foil, at 150°C fan for about 15 minutes. The meringue will soften, but it is still a very good plateful. Ration the portions if you must — this is a pudding that disappears faster than seems reasonable.